All of the cameras have a solid metal body of polished steel and/or chromium.

The covering between models varies not only in color but in materials. I am unsure if the leather is real or not, but leather is different than "leather".

The models without rangefinders have extra covering along the top.

This brown stuff is not leather. But its made to look like it.

Whenever you try to remove it from the camera, it can tear easily and you'll notice woven threads.

Very unique look compared to the rougher texture of all other models.

Midway between the fake brown leather and the supposed real green stuff, was this black covering.

Very little texture, it does make the boldest contrast of all the other coverings when paired with the shiny chrome.

Not sure if this stuff is real leather or not, but certainly might be.

Always peels in one piece unless you really try to tear it.

Sometimes it varies in its hue, so if swapping coverings, check for a match.

Not sure if this stuff is real leather or not, but certainly might be.

Always peels in one piece unless you really try to tear it.

Sometimes it varies in its hue, so if swapping coverings, check for a match.

To go with the lighter tan plastic of the rangefinder housing.

Seems to definitely be just a different color of the green leather material.

The earliest models lack a rangefinder and only have a viewfinder.

Later an uncoupled rangefinder was added to a couple models.

The last addition was a coupled rangefinder on top of the camera in a plastic housing.

Each has its merits, caveats and style.

You really can only point and shoot with this viewfinder.

You still must guesstimate distance to subject and set the lensboard to the appropriate setting.

Parallax is accomplished by looking at a ball on a spring; not very exact.

With the viewfinder the wireframe makes composing alot easier.

You still must guesstimate distance to subject and set the lensboard to the appropriate setting.

Still uses a viewfinder and wireframe for composing.

Makes conversion to packfilm difficult because the cut edge runs where the rangefinder is.

Split image focusing with a distance dial.

You must input distance to subject and set the lensboard to the appropriate setting.

A plastic housing on top of the camera houses mirrors and mechanics for a coupled rangefinder.

Turning the focus knob moves both the lensboard and the mechanics inside the finder.

Split image focusing in one window. Parallax corrected framing in the next.

A plastic housing on top of the camera houses mirrors and mechanics for a coupled rangefinder.

Turning the focus knob moves both the lensboard and the mechanics inside the finder.

Split image focusing and bright-line parallax corrected framing in one window.

Most shutters are basically "automatic" in that you choose a number and just shoot.

The truly manual shutters are sometimes different brands, as are the lens elements, but function the same.

Manual shutters can be professionally Cleaned Lubed & Adjusted to keep them in top shape.

The last shutters made were "automatic electric eyes", powered by hard to find batteries, but can still shoot in a manual mode.

The first shutters used the "Polaroid Light Value" scale, which was in reality the photography Exposure Value scale minus 9. Set by turning a dial at the top of the shutter.

The oldest instant print shutter ever, with its age can come problems.

Avoid this shutter if you can.

Uses the Exposure Value scale set by turning a dial at the top of the shutter.

Faster speeds than the LV shutter used before.

Quite reliable in my experience, but if it breaks or doesn't work right, just swap it with another one

Lens: 127mm, f/4.5, 4-element Wollensak Raptar
(doesn't have clicks for fstops, just marks)

Shutter: Wollensak Rapax, 1 - 1/400, plus Bulb and Time

Flash: M,X sync via a bi-pin sync connector
(which is not easy to find)

Lens: 127mm, f/4.7, 4-element Rodenstock Ysarex
(other brand combinations exist)

Shutter: Prontor SVS, 1 - 1/300 plus Bulb

Flash: M,X sync via PC connector or Polaroid "hot shoe"
(hotshoe fits nothing but Polaroid brand flashes)

Has a built in timer and has an EV scale for quick settings.

The 110B camera has an f/90 "pinhole" in lens cap.

Lens: 127mm, f/4.7, 4-element Yashinon

Shutter: Seikosha-SLV, 1 - 1/500 plus Bulb
(fastest shutter of them all)

Flash: M,X sync via PC connector or Polaroid "hot shoe"
(hotshoe fits nothing but Polaroid brand flashes)

Has a built in timer and has an EV scale for quick settings.

Has extra f/64 and f/90 stops.

Never been able to find a battery so manual mode is all I've used.

Uses same EV scale in manual mode.