Emulsion Lifts

So you've got this cool image, but there's something missing. Something stopping it from being great. Maybe it's a different technique you need? Using emulsion transfer, you can transfer your image into any position and manipulate it onto any surface you want. Including a wall in the MOMA.

What you'll need

• Polaroid film (color ONLY; see note on black and white)
• Tray with 160°F distilled water
• Tray with room temperature distilled water
• Vinyl adhesive contact paper
• Brayer roller
• Squeegee
• Tongs
• Thermometer capable of reading 160°F
• Timer
• Hair dryer (optional)
• Clear acetate or mylar

If you are using Fuji films the following process will NOT work very well. In the future there will be a section dedicated to using Fuji films for lifts, but for now only Polaroid films will work with the following steps.

Fuji has posted a PDF where they experimented with their films!

Step 1: Process the exposed Polaroid film

Process the exposed Polaroid film and let it dry for 8 to 24 hours or force-dry with a hair dryer. Different techniques can be used to create the image. The exposure can be made in camera or by shooting onto positive transparency film and projecting the image onto the Polaroid film. This can be done with a Polaprinter, a Vivitar Instant Slide Printer or a DayLab/Daylab Jr. Slide Printer, an enlarger equipped with a color head or printing filters (cold light sources are not recommended). A copy stand can also be used to photograph a print. Cover the back of the print with plastic contact paper to prevent the back coat from dissolving.

For best results, use Polacolor ER (108, 669, 59, 559, 809).

Most likely you'll be using 669 film as its still available cheaply.

Step 2: Trays of water

Heat a tray of distilled water to 160°F and fill another tray with cold distilled water.

Place a sheet of acetate or Mylar on the bottom of the cold water tray.

If you're transferring onto watercolor paper, moisten the paper under room-temperature tap water for several seconds. Place your paper on a waterproof counter top and remove the excess water with a squeegee.

Step 3: Immerse the print

Immerse the print face up in the tray of 160°F water for 4 minutes.

Agitate the tray to keep the print under the surface of the water. It is not necessary to keep the water heated during this time.

Remove the print from the hot water using the tongs and place it in the tray of cold water.

Step 4: Lightly push the emulsion

Lightly push the emulsion from the edges of the print slightly toward the center.

Lift the emulsion and slowly peel it away from the paper substrate, keeping the part of the emulsion that is releasing from the substrate under the water.

Bring the emulsion back and over itself (somewhat like turning down a bed sheet), thus reversing the image.

Leave the emulsion floating in the water.

Discard the paper substrate.

Step 5: Grab the emulsion

Grab two corners of the emulsion and clamp it with your fingers to the acetate on the bottom of the tray.

Holding the emulsion, lift the acetate in and out of the water several times to stretch the image and remove the wrinkles. Repeat this on all four sides, always holding the top two corners.

When stretched, you can dunk the image to purposefully let the water curl and then fold it.

When you're satisfied with the image, remove it from the water and place it onto your transfer surface. Make sure the acetate or carrying material is on top.

Step 6: Remove the acetate

Carefully remove the acetate.

Use your fingers to push and stretch the image to manipulate it. At this time, you can dunk the emulsion/paper in and out of the cold water to further manipulate the image.

When finished, roll the image with a soft rubber Brayer from the middle outward. Start with just the weight of the roller, increasing the pressure only after all the excess water and air bubbles have been removed. You are done when all the folds look pressed down.

Hang dry when finished.

Step 7: Flatten

Flatten the transfer in a warm dry-mount press.

If desired, spray with a protective coating.

Finish with pastels, watercolor paints, dyes, and pencils if desired. Protect from UV exposure for stability.

For black and white images:

• For black and white image lifts, you must project a black and white slide onto color film, since black and white film does not lift.
  NOTE: some people have had success using black and white films, never hurts to try!

Tips

If there is a jelly-like substance sticking to the back of the emulsion when first removed, stretch the emulsion on the acetate and place it on the counter. Take the side of your little finger and lightly push it off the emulsion and discard.

• If the emulsion is hard to remove from its paper backing, it could be from the hardness of your tap water. Try using bottled water instead.
• If you are combining several images for a photo mosaic, keep track of the time the emulsion is in the cold water, since it will expand while soaking. This is important if you are trying to keep the image size constant.