The Steps

parts & labor
what's needed to get the job done

basics of function
overview of how to use the lens and shutter

the back, the strap, the lens
remove useless vintage roll-film parts; lens

the rangefinder
removing, taking apart

cutter-bar & inner parts
more useless vintage parts that have to go

ready the back
cutting; fitting the packfilm back; odds n ends

acquiring a 900 finder
removal & appropriation

fitting the finder & flash
measure, drill & fit

remove & re-leather; paint

adding the back & flash
screws, tape & wires

putting it all together
replace rangefinder, strap, flash & side door

reset infinity
setting the focus stop

admire the work

Polaroid Pathfinder 110A Conversion

This is the real deal. My prior conversions of the Model 150 have helped me to learn enough about the process that I feel it is time to work on a 110A.

Unlike most Polaroids produced since the Pathfinders, the 110s give you manual controls. The lens it came with is top-notch, a Rodenstock-Ysarex 127mm in a Prontor-SVS shutter: speeds B-300, f4.7-f45. This makes the 110s highly desirable for conversion, especially to people like me who favor manual & mechanical.

Many who like to do this conversion, would love to use a 110B. But their rarity and usefulness for conversions keep their cost too high for most. A reasonable alternative is the 110A. Other than the dual window finder, it is identical in every way to the 110B; though it costs alot less.

The Model 900, though an electric-eye camera, shares the same basic body as the 110s; but, like the 110B, has a coupled finder. So its a logical assumption that you can replace the 110A finder with the 900 finder. This essentially makes your 110A into a 110B, other than the focus knob label.

Besides the fact a 110a takes unavailable film, it also has an off-center hotshoe only for proprietary Polaroid flashes at m-sync. The shutter itself has x-sync so I decided that this conversion could use a new hotshoe, centered, allowing the use of any electronic flash you might have.

I would not try this conversion if I didn't know what could go wrong and how to avoid it. The last thing I want is to have to try and find another 110A in this good of condition. It is only because I have already converted two other Pathfinder-like models that I feel confident enough to convert a 110A.

I would highly recommend at least giving a cursory overview of my Model 150 conversion to get an idea of what the conversion of a 110A can entail.

I have set up this guide with the steps taken from start to finish found at the right side of the page. I did not label them "step 1, 2, 3" because I don't feel its necessary to do every one of these steps, or in some cases, in the order they are presented here. I took great care in trying to document all the steps I took to get this camera converted.

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