FAQS: Cameras – Rollfilm

Rollfilm cameras comes in a few basic styles.
Examples are the 95B, 110A, 150 & 800.

The original instant cameras. Starting with the Model 95 this was the beginning of instant photography as we know it today.

No film has been made for these cameras for many years, so they are only useful as the basis for another film format. This information will give you the major differences between them and why some are more sought after than others. All are built like tanks and though being the oldest Polaroid cameras around, they are typically in the best of conditions.

The information compiled can be found at the Land List.

All cameras here are aperture priority cameras. Unless noted, there is no manual way to set either the shutter speed or the aperture. These mechanical shutters have a number of set speeds and a rotating dial of different apertures.

Exposure Value (EV) specs

EV fstop shutter speed
10 8.8 1/12
11 8.8 1/25
12 8.8 1/50
13 8.8 1/100
14 12.5 1/100
15 17.5 1/100
16 25 1/100
17 35 1/100

Every camera uses the EV exposure system, found on many light meters, including newer fancy ones. Match EV numbers to your meter reading and shoot.

The first model 95 uses the LV system which is actually the EV system minus 9. However, the shutter was slower than the EV ones, so this chart is NOT for the original 95.

Eventually you will get the hang of just turning the dial one number up for darker, one down for lighter exposures and seeing the scene for the correct exposure without a meter.

The manual cameras, noted below, also use the EV system but allow you to choose different combinations of shutter speeds and apertures. Giving you more control over depth of field and camera shake.

These cameras will take 4×5 sheet film with no modifications, simply load/unload in the dark.

Hover over green text to see more information about certain attributes

Model [simple_tooltip content=’All of the cameras have a solid metal body of polished steel and/or chromium.

The covering between models varies not only in color but in materials.

Unsure if it is real leather.

The models without rangefinders have extra covering along the top.’]Color[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’The earliest models lack a rangefinder and only have a viewfinder.

Later an uncoupled rangefinder was added to a couple models.

The last addition was a coupled rangefinder on top of the camera in a plastic housing.

Each has its merits, caveats and style.’]Finder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Most shutters are basically “automatic” in that you choose a number and just shoot.

The truly manual shutters are sometimes different brands, as are the lens elements, but function the same.

Manual shutters can be professionally Cleaned Lubed and Adjusted to keep them in top shape.

The last shutters made were “automatic electric eyes”, powered by hard to find batteries, but can still shoot in a manual mode.’]Shutter[/simple_tooltip]

Notes
95 [simple_tooltip content=’This brown stuff is not leather. But its made to look like it.

The covering varies between individual cameras not only in color but in materials too.

Unsure if it is real leather.

Very unique look compared to the rougher texture of all other models.’]brown leather cloth[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’You really can only point and shoot with this viewfinder.

You still must guesstimate distance to subject and set the lensboard to the appropriate setting.

Parallax is accomplished by looking at a ball on a spring; not very exact.’]viewfinder only[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’The first shutters used the “Polaroid Light Value” scale, which was in reality the photography Exposure Value scale minus 9. Set by turning a dial at the top of the shutter.

The oldest instant print shutter ever, with its age can come problems.

Avoid this shutter if you can.’]LV mechanical[/simple_tooltip]

original instant camera; not a good choice to convert because of the focusing being wonky
95A [simple_tooltip content=’This brown stuff is not leather. But its made to look like it.

The covering varies between individual cameras not only in color but in materials too.

Unsure if it is real leather.

Very unique look compared to the rougher texture of all other models.’]brown leather cloth[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’With the viewfinder the wireframe makes composing alot easier.

You still must guesstimate distance to subject and set the lensboard to the appropriate setting.’]wireframe[/simple_tooltip]

LV or EV mechanical better shutter, typically missing adjustable infinity stop making conversions more difficult
95B [simple_tooltip content=’This brown stuff is not leather. But its made to look like it.

The covering varies between individual cameras not only in color but in materials too.

Unsure if it is real leather.

Very unique look compared to the rougher texture of all other models.’]brown leather cloth[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’With the viewfinder the wireframe makes composing alot easier.

You still must guesstimate distance to subject and set the lensboard to the appropriate setting.’]wireframe[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Uses the Exposure Value scale set by turning a dial at the top of the shutter.

Faster speeds than the LV shutter used before.’]EV mechanical[/simple_tooltip]

has adjustable infinity stop and the EV shutter guaranteed making it the best 95 candidate for conversions
100 [simple_tooltip content=’Midway between the fake brown leather and the supposed real green stuff, was this black covering.

Very little texture, it does make the boldest contrast of all the other coverings when paired with the shiny chrome.’]black textured[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’With the viewfinder the wireframe makes composing alot easier.

You still must guesstimate distance to subject and set the lensboard to the appropriate setting.’]wireframe[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Uses the Exposure Value scale set by turning a dial at the top of the shutter.

Faster speeds than the LV shutter used before.’]EV mechanical[/simple_tooltip]

combines the mechanics of 95 with covering like a 110; very rare model
110 [simple_tooltip content=’Midway between the fake brown leather and the supposed real green stuff, was this black covering.

Very little texture, it does make the boldest contrast of all the other coverings when paired with the shiny chrome.’]black textured[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Still uses a viewfinder and wireframe for composing.

Makes conversion to packfilm difficult because the cut edge runs where the rangefinder is.

Split image focusing with a distance dial.

You must input distance to subject and set the lensboard to the appropriate setting.’]uncoupled rangefinder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Lens: 127mm, f/4.5, 4-element

Shutter: Wollensak Rapax, 1 – 1/400, plus Bulb and Time

Flash: M,X sync via a bi-pin sync connector.’]Manual Rapax[/simple_tooltip]

finder location makes conversion difficult
110A [simple_tooltip content=’Not sure if this stuff is real leather or not, but certainly might be.

Always peels in one piece unless you really try to tear it.

Sometimes it varies in its hue, so if swapping coverings, check for a match.’]green leather[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’A plastic housing on top of the camera houses mirrors and mechanics for a coupled rangefinder.

Turning the focus knob moves both the lensboard and the mechanics inside the finder.

Split image focusing in one window. Parallax corrected framing in the next.’]2 window rangefinder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Lens: 127mm, f/4.7, 4-element Rodenstock Ysarex or Enna Werk.

Shutter: Prontor SVS, 1 – 1/300 plus Bulb

Flash: M,X sync via PC connector or Polaroid “hot shoe” (shoe fits nothing but Polaroid brand size flashes)

Has a built in timer and has an EV scale for quick settings.

The 110B camera has an f/90 “pinhole” in lens cap.‘]manual Prontor[/simple_tooltip]

easier to find than the 110B and for shooting purposes only differs in the rangefinder type
110B [simple_tooltip content=’Not sure if this stuff is real leather or not, but certainly might be.

Always peels in one piece unless you really try to tear it.

Sometimes it varies in its hue, so if swapping coverings, check for a match.’]green leather[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’A plastic housing on top of the camera houses mirrors and mechanics for a coupled rangefinder.

Turning the focus knob moves both the lensboard and the mechanics inside the finder.

Split image focusing and bright-line parallax corrected framing in one window.’]1 window rangefinder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Lens: 127mm, f/4.7, 4-element Rodenstock Ysarex or Enna Werk.

Shutter: Prontor SVS, 1 – 1/300 plus Bulb

Flash: M or X sync via PC connector or Polaroid “hot shoe” (shoe fits nothing but Polaroid brand size flashes)

Has a built in timer and has an EV scale for quick settings.

The 110B camera has an f/90 “pinhole” in lens cap.‘]manual Prontor[/simple_tooltip]

f90 aperture in lenscap; expensive and most sought after for conversions
120 [simple_tooltip content=’A fake leather that is thinner than original.

Peels off in pieces and is glued very strongly.’]green textured vinyl[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’A plastic housing on top of the camera houses mirrors and mechanics for a coupled rangefinder.

Turning the focus knob moves both the lensboard and the mechanics inside the finder.

Split image focusing in one window. Parallax corrected framing in the next.’]2 window rangefinder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Lens: 1127mm, f/4.7, 4-element Yashica Yashinon.

Shutter: Seikosha-SLV, 1 – 1/500 plus Bulb (fastest shutter of them all)

Flash: M or X sync via PC connector or Polaroid “hot shoe” (shoe fits nothing but Polaroid brand size flashes)

Has a built in timer and has an EV scale for quick settings.

Has extra f/64 and f/90 stops built in.’]manual Seikosha[/simple_tooltip]

Japanese version of the 110A; the rarest rollfilm camera; expensive
150 [simple_tooltip content=’Not sure if this stuff is real leather or not, but certainly might be.

Always peels in one piece unless you really try to tear it.

Sometimes it varies in its hue, so if swapping coverings, check for a match.’]green leather[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’A plastic housing on top of the camera houses mirrors and mechanics for a coupled rangefinder.

Turning the focus knob moves both the lensboard and the mechanics inside the finder.

Split image focusing in one window. Parallax corrected framing in the next.’]2 window rangefinder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Uses the Exposure Value scale set by turning a dial at the top of the shutter.

Faster speeds than the LV shutter used before.’]EV mechanical[/simple_tooltip]

a 95B with 110A rangefinder
160 [simple_tooltip content=’A fake leather that is thinner than original.

Peels off in pieces and is glued very strongly.’]green textured vinyl[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’A plastic housing on top of the camera houses mirrors and mechanics for a coupled rangefinder.

Turning the focus knob moves both the lensboard and the mechanics inside the finder.

Split image focusing in one window. Parallax corrected framing in the next.’]2 window rangefinder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Uses the Exposure Value scale set by turning a dial at the top of the shutter.

Faster speeds than the LV shutter used before.’]EV mechanical[/simple_tooltip]

Japanese version of the 150
700 grey textured [simple_tooltip content=’Still uses a viewfinder and wireframe for composing.

Makes conversion to packfilm difficult because the cut edge runs where the rangefinder is.

Split image focusing with a distance dial.

You must input distance to subject and set the lensboard to the appropriate setting.’]uncoupled rangefinder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Uses the Exposure Value scale set by turning a dial at the top of the shutter.

Faster speeds than the LV shutter used before.’]EV mechanical[/simple_tooltip]

a 110 with the shutter from a 150; not very useful because of the location of the rangefinder, but unique looking
800 [simple_tooltip content=’To go with the lighter tan plastic of the rangefinder housing.

Seems to definitely be just a different color of the green leather material.’]grey/green leather[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’A plastic housing on top of the camera houses mirrors and mechanics for a coupled rangefinder.

Turning the focus knob moves both the lensboard and the mechanics inside the finder.

Split image focusing in one window. Parallax corrected framing in the next.’]2 window rangefinder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Uses the Exposure Value scale set by turning a dial at the top of the shutter.

Faster speeds than the LV shutter used before.’]EV mechanical[/simple_tooltip]

different color version of the 150; refer to both models as one in literature for some reason
850 [simple_tooltip content=’To go with the lighter tan plastic of the rangefinder housing.

Seems to definitely be just a different color of the green leather material.’]grey/green leather[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’A plastic housing on top of the camera houses mirrors and mechanics for a coupled rangefinder.

Turning the focus knob moves both the lensboard and the mechanics inside the finder.

Split image focusing in one window. Parallax corrected framing in the next.’]2 window rangefinder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Never been able to find a battery so manual mode is all Ive used.

Uses same EV scale in manual mode.’]electric eye[/simple_tooltip]

new front door style, new lock and focus knob; introduced the automatic exposure
900 [simple_tooltip content=’Not sure if this stuff is real leather or not, but certainly might be.

Always peels in one piece unless you really try to tear it.

Sometimes it varies in its hue, so if swapping coverings, check for a match.’]green leather[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’A plastic housing on top of the camera houses mirrors and mechanics for a coupled rangefinder.

Turning the focus knob moves both the lensboard and the mechanics inside the finder.

Split image focusing and bright-line parallax corrected framing in one window.’]1 window rangefinder[/simple_tooltip]

[simple_tooltip content=’Never been able to find a battery so manual mode is all Ive used.

Uses same EV scale in manual mode.’]electric eye[/simple_tooltip]

an 850 with finder from 110B