Parts & Labor

There are 4 models that all share the 95's styling:

Model 95

Model 95A

Model 95B

Model 700

Any one of these will work just the same for this conversion. However, only the 95B has EV settings which can be found on most exposure meters. The other models use a "Light Value" system, exactly like EV, but the numbers are -9. So LV1 = EV10.

The model 700 is a very special treat, a rare find if you actually see one. Its the same as all the rest but it actually has a Kalart rangefinder built-in! This makes gauging the distance to your subject not a guess! I'll go into what this means when using the camera in the next step.

Depending on how you want to approach this project, you can choose to use a donor pack film camera and hack its back off. Or, as I did, get yourself an actual OEM pack film back.

For instructions on how to procure a back from an Auto, check the steps I took with the Model 150 conversion. Some things will differ from my conversion if not using an OEM back. Take note where applicable.

An OEM back will save alot of time and effort on your part, and it also makes the finished camera cleaner looking. If you can, find a silver colored one to accent the camera.

For tools, a set of small screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, hacksaw, double-sided tape, small files and a rotary tool (Dremel) with some cut-off wheels and grinding bits.

Screwdrivers will, of course, be needed. Mostly you will need smaller screwdrivers than you may own. Electronic and computer repair types are best. Interestingly, you will find both flat and Philips head screws on your Polaroids. The flat screwdrivers also come in handy for some prying.

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